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Beginner's Guide On How To Use Nail Forms

For those unfamiliar, nail forms are an alternative to using tips for building nail extensions. They are adhesive, flexible stickers that fit onto your client’s finger, allowing enhancements to be built directly on top. For beginners aiming to master nail techniques, learning to use forms is a critical skill.

What Are Nail Forms?

Nail forms can be disposable or reusable, typically made of paper or flexible metal. Disposable forms often come on rolls of several hundred, convenient since you use ten at a time. Some technicians prefer using forms over tips because they accommodate fingers and nails of all sizes, allowing acrylic or gel to be applied directly to the natural nail rather than a tip. While tips can create bulk, sculpting an enhancement on a form results in a more natural-looking thickness.

Why Use Nail Forms?

Simply put, nail forms offer more versatility than tips. The reduced bulk during the extension process creates a thinner, more natural-looking enhancement. Tips are also a "one size fits most" extension and may not fit extra wide or flat nails. In contrast, extra-long nail forms can create longer extensions. Many experienced nail professionals find tips limiting and prefer the flexibility and possibilities that forms provide.

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Apply Nail Forms

Step 1: Preparation
Before applying the form, prep the nail as usual by removing any polish or previous enhancements and shaping the free edge. Gently push back the cuticles and file the nail surface with a medium 150 grit file to remove the shine.  Dust off the nails and cleanse with Swipe to remove excess oils from the nail plate. Apply two coats of Protein Bond.

Step 2: Choosing the Right Nail Form
Nail forms are adaptable to nails of various shapes and sizes. For nail-biters, cut the center tab in half and apply straight across the opening to fit a straight edge under the short nail. You can also trim the tab for square nails or use two forms to accommodate extra-wide nails, which wouldn’t be possible with tips.

Step 3: Application
Place the tab underneath the nail so that the entire form is sticky. Pinch the front end to shape it nicely. Ensure the tabs line up before pinching the form together to avoid uneven product application. Using the lines on the form, align the center of the form’s opening with the center of the client’s nail. Once the form is under the free edge, adhere the sides and secure them to the sides of the finger, do not stick the entire form to the knuckle area as this will not allow for movement and can cause the form to loosen from under the nail if the client bends the finger. The form should not angle upward or downward.

Step 4: Applying Acrylic/Gel
Applying acrylic or gel over the form is straightforward. The tapered shape of a well-applied form allows for a natural-looking extension that only requires filing to refine the desired shape.

Step 5: Removing the Nail Form
Once the extension has set, the nail form can easily be released from the acrylic/gel extension by pinching the form.  If the form doesn't easily release from the product, use the tip of a cuticle pusher or orange wood stick to press the form away. Once the form is released from the product, gently pull down to remove it with minimal effort.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Don’t push the form all the way back to touch the skin—it’s unnecessary and can lead to uneven application.If the form is pushed too far under the nail, this can be painful or can damage the delicate skin under the free edge. Also, don’t waste time trying to make the form stick underneath the nail; the adhesive sides are sufficient. If the sides are wrapped and the client bends their finger, you risk losing the proper form angle.

Nail forms offer a customizable foundation for building enhancements and can elevate your work as your skills improve. With practice, you'll see noticeable improvements in the quality of your results. Keep experimenting to perfect your technique.